This was my second project for the DeYoung Museum of San Francisco. This dress dress by Pacquin dates to the turn of the century. It was in good shape but it's underskirt had been lost. Our job was to create an underskirt that would look right but not stand out or draw focus from the dress during exhibition. I did not need to make a bustle for the dress. The extra fullness in back had been accounted for in the carving of the form. My first task was to make a simple petticoat (picture #2); we then used a champagne color charmeuse panel for the front. After much shopping we decided on crepeline ruffles edged with a satin ribbon to match the sleeve detail. Next we added a alternating rows of black and mint green velvet ribbon to compliment the details on the front of the dress (picture #1). In museum work you must be very careful with the objects; in order to attach the false front I added fabric button loops to the sides and stitched button on the petticoat. That way there would be no hooks to catch or damage the dress. I would really love to someday know what the original underskirt was like. I would like to give credit to Joann Hacket, FAM staff textile conservator for dying the crepeline and to Ms. Gates and the rest of the Fine Arts Museums staff for the opportunity to work on this garment and to have it as a wonderful addition to my portfolio. Jeanne Paquin, French, 1869 1936 Dress (bodice and skirt), 1890 1900 Pale green taffeta, printed applique, and sequins Fine Arts Museums of San Francisco, Gift of Marion H. Gorill, 1984.17.3a-b